Perfume Notes

Studio, Uncategorized

Could analyse all the words people describe the scent as smelling like – analyse overlap and find most common to find relative colour? Could also do with feeling? Vibe?

Things to find:

  1. Name of Perfume
  2. Personal Relationship/Backstory or How Popular
  3. Notes
  4. Most Thought of Notes
  6. Analysis of Words
  7. Bottles
  8. Advertising Campaign

Fragrances from personal memories:

  • Versace Eros
  • Glossier You
  • Panache
  • Black Orchid
  • Joop! Homme
  • Hugo Boss Intense
  • Opium
  • Dolce and Gabbana The One
  • Daisy Eau So Fresh
  • Daisy
  • Creed Aventus
  • Marc Jacobs Decadence

Most Popular Women’s Fragrances:

Most Popular Men’s Fragrances:

Daisy Eau So Fresh

  • remember from school, remember advertising campaign – girl sat on horse, girls in white in the field –
  • aspirational – shot by juergen teller – fitted with the kind of tumblr images and ideal lifestyles I aspired to at the time – thin women, in nature ect
  • Status symbol amongst ‘cool’ early teen girls

Quotes from

  • “A decent juicy raspberry in the opening volley is squandered on a chemical mess not unlike the emotional and hormonal earthquake of ESF’s (apparent) intended fan base of 14 year-olds.” – Shifty Bat – 31st Dec 2015

Quotes from




  • perfume my Grandmother used to wear everyday
  • synonymous with all memories of her


Top Notes: Orange, Lemon, Corriander, Thyme

Middle Notes: Rose, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Iris, Lily, Geranium

Base Notes: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Musk and Myhrr

Main Notes According to User Votes: Oakmoss, Corriander, Musk

Comments from

  • “My Grandmother wore this fragrance and considered herself very extravagant to indulge in pefume so saved it for special occasions. She had lived through 2 world wars and died back in 1994 and still saved bits of soap to use! Smelling this fragrance again was a must for me as,now in my 50s I have an overwhelming need for a sense of nostalgia.” (singingsuzie17, 02/03/18)
  • “There was my grandmother! But not as an old lady, as a glamourous woman with her hair done her matching bag and shoes and red lipstick.” (singingsuzie17, 02/03/18)
  • “Panache reminds me of my dear late Mum – its an era where Tweed-like and Avon classic fumes ruled.” (Vivavoice, 04/10/17)
  • “While this smells old-fashioned and dated I honestly don’t mind it. My teacher used to wear this and always smelled soapy and clean.” (Contessa01, 25/06/15)
  • “It reminds me of blowing my nose into grandma’s freshly laundered hankerchief and clothes coming back from the drycleaners. Tweed has the same effect for me.” (PLUMPIE, 29/01/15)
  • “This is a great 1970s style aldehyde. It’s soapy and clean and smells a bit like talc. From  my ancient memories, this is how lots of women smelled when I was growing up.” (BettyNoir, 26/06/13)
  • “I sense flowers, rose and carnations, but the overwhelming scent is a lady’s boudoir.” (piapedersen, 04/06/13)

Most Common Words used to describe:

  • Colour –
  • Texture – fresh, soapy, clean, powdery, powdery, soapy, clean, powdery, fresh, soap
  • Flavour – citrus, sharp, refreshing, floral, spicy, synthetic, floral, citrus, alcohol
  • Emotion – stimulating, addictive, pleasant, old-fashioned, dated, granny, old, fussy, classic, feminine, uplifting, lovely, awful, heaven, nostalgia, glamorous

Screen Shot 2018-10-22 at 17.09.47

Screen Shot 2018-10-22 at 17.13.29


Screen Shot 2018-10-22 at 17.21.42

Yves Saint Laurent – Opium

  • mother wears, scent I remember/think of her wearing when I am thinking of her


Top Notes: Bergamont, Mandarin Orange, Lilley-of-the-valley

Middle Notes: Carnation, Jasmine, Mhyrr

Base Notes: Patchouli, Opoponax, Amber, Vanilla

Main Notes According to User Votes: Mhyrr, Carnation, Opoponax

Comments from

  • This is a juice I also would love to smell on a man. I bought Opium man for my man for his birthday, and now we both wear our Opiums for special occasions and love it on each other. (Germanblonde, 31/07/17)
  • It makes me feel sexy, loud and proud. I wear it to bed, but not every night. (Cocolover, 29/06/2017)
  • Few designer perfumes today still have the power to give such an aura of “in control” than Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent. (MasterLi, 14/10/15)
  • Even though I’ve only just tried Opium for the first time, it’s extremely nostalgic for me. It smells exactly like ‘Earth Lore’ – The smoky, incense-laden shop I frequented as a curious teenager, which was stocked with small Egyptian & Buddhist trinkets, crystals, and books on witchcraft. (Daisyvision, 01/05/2015)

Comments from

  • “I wore Opium when I was 18 (imagine!). To the relief of everyone around me, I assume, I stopped wearing it around 19. I avoided it and actually detested it for years, but recently made the acquaintance of a chic lady who wears it quite well. So, though I still cannot wear this, I no longer wish a black hoodoo hex on anyone else who wears it.” (zabette, 08/11/04)
  • “when Opium works, it works like nothing else. Something in this fragrance stimulates me and energizes me. It makes me feel ALIVE – even on gloomy dark days.” (RoseAmber, 11/06/05)
  • “What separates womanhood from girlhood? Opium extrait.” (MarksCarltonLane, 07/08/05)
  • “Opium parfum is the most magnificent antidote to the waves of pubescent pop princess, foody/deodorant-style, mass-made scents that rule young fragrance buyers as the 20th century closed and the 21st century begins.” (MarksCarltonLane, 07/08/05)
  • “For my money and unqualified opinion, Opium parfum is one of the last truly visionary, marketplace-defiant, historically significant gifts from parfumeurs to the world. What a welcome revolution Opium was in 1976, yet, a discovery that brings me uncommon joy in 2005!” (MarksCarltonLane, 07/08/05)
  • “Many moons ago, before Noah came out of the ark, I used to bathe myself in this before going on a girls night out. You might guess, in those days, I used to drink a bottle of martini before jumping in the cab with my girlfriends. Remember this is before ‘ladettes’ were invented. Now I am totally embarrassed, because I can’t think what I liked about it. I remember complaining my mum’s Estee Lauder smelled like cats urine, but this is much worse. Now when I see it or even get a tiny niff of it I cringe. It’s a bit of a creepy feeling, like meeting one of your old boyfriends, or someone’s walking over your grave…” (missellie, 17/08/05)
  • “My mother used to wear this almost every day in the late 70s and 80s and I loved to smell it lingering in the house long after she left. I remember she would always get the parfum on the cord for Christmas. This is one of the sexiest fragrances my nose has ever known.” (KimChi, 07/12/05)
  • “It reminds me (and laugh if you must, but I love this smell) of a high Anglican (Episcopalian) church, because they use sandalwood incense in the braziers before a service.” (bonni, 25/02/06)
  • “Dear God!!!What on earth is this??? My aunt Helen used to wear this in the early 80’s and I didn’t like it then. I still don’t. This is simply horrid. One of my work colleagues came into work with this on a test strip and I couldn’t help but notice the faint smell of unwashed dirty body, not in the sexy MKK way, but a filthy unhygenic way. She told me that the YSL counter had a special offer on with an Opium scented candle. Why bother? I’m sure you could get the same effect by leaving a pair of dirty knickers on a hot light bulb.” (mikey_p, 30/09/06)
  • “I know this is for the ladies, but after smelling it on my best friend’s wife, I had to buy a bottle for myself. I haven’t been brave enough to wear it out in public yet, but it can totally turn my boring evenings at home into something special. A glass of red wine, my favorite cardigan, a special DVD, and Opium. Mr. Roger’s eat your heart out.” (JDBIII, 26/09/06)
  • “It is so sensual, seems to be a boudoir fragrance, and also , in the back of my mind, it reminds me of my Mother…SHE is the kind of woman who would wear Opium. Have I gotten to this point in my life, that I can wear a scent reminiscent of Mom? And also be turned on by it? HOLY COW! WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN????” (rtamara41, 03/11/06)
  • “THIS is a scent that makes me think I should be in the boudoir draped in velvet , wearing high heels, and nothing else. Am I brave enough to declare the intensity of my sensuality as I go about my daily business, amongst my neighbors, my co workers , the crossing guards, the grocery checkout boys? (rtamara41, 03/11/06)
  • “Opium was the first scent I had a gut “YES!” reaction to when I was 16, remained the only scent I wore until age 35. When my mother missed me, she would go to the nearest department store, spray “Opium” into the air in front of her, and walk into it.” (ComDiva, 16/12/06)
  • “It is my default fragrance. The one I want to be remembered for. The one I want to be buried in.” (glorious1, 13/01/07)
  • “I was walking through a mall here in Brisbane in the city 3 weeks ago, and smelled this on a man as he walked past. I knew very well what it was, as my sister and ex-girlfriend of 4 years wore it.” (Carl999, 09/06/07)
  • “If one could imagine what an unshowered Joan Crawford and Night of the Living Dead would smell like together or maybe Norman Bates mother – this is it.” (Bautista, 12/10/07)
  • “I think this was my very first REAL perfume love. I had to have been about 9 years old!!! Maybe 10. I remember putting it on and loving it. I have to question what my teacher thought of me to be wearing such an adult scent. It was spicy and warm and musky and sweet. I felt very grown up and probably did not fit in at all in my small little elementary school in the country of middle-of-nowhere Idaho.” (sameasalways, 12/01/08)
  • “When I close my eyes I can almost imagine myself in the romantic world as described by Pearl Buck and so many others.” (White Orchid, 15/05/08)
  • “We all remeber the smell of our mother when we were children right?
    well I remember this smell and have asked to my mother lately what she was wearing when I was around 5 years old
    -opium by ysl she said, offered my by father (who are a conouiseur in the domain 😉
    The only thing I could put my finger on from these faded memories are the suble soooooo soft`n’subtle musky-powdery-sandalwood smell lingering around my momy’s neck
    AAAhh good old childhood olfactive memories
    there are these smell that just hit you in the heart, so disarming, no resistance possible, that just bring out something engraved in the deepest inconscient part of your brain” (Lorenzzo88, 05/06/08)
  • “This perfume was what my father gifted to my mother when they were intimate.” (maramica, 30/07/08)
  • “In 1977 when I was a child my beautiful black-haired Thai aunt wore Opium, and she smelled like Siam to me. She ate the most fireliciously strange and interesting food I’ve ever smelled (I didn’t dare try it – she made us Westerners watered-down versions that made us sweat copiously and drink gallons of milk). Somehow Opium and her own personal smell, which was unique, and on the verge of unpleasant, complemented each other perfectly. I didn’t know it was Opium until years later in high school, when a friend gave me her bottle, a BIG bottle of edp no less! “This smells vile,” she said. “Take it.”” (rock-head, 07/09/08)
  • “As a pre-teen, I went on a rare jaunt to the movies with friends one night, and had the terrible misfortune to sit behind a woman who seemed to have bathed in this stuff. I had to excuse myself to the theater lobby in order to keep my stomach contents where they ought to be. Even now, years later, a whiff of this turns my stomach.” (mals86, 30/01/09)
  • “Far from being the quintessential scent of the 1980’s, OPIUM feels more like an impressionist painting about life and love on the ancient Silk Road.” (Diamondflame, 25/02/10)
  • “Opium is a statement fragrance for someone who knows what she’s doing.” (Johannes, 30/04/10)
  • “Opium conjures an image of an 1930’s
    Shanghai speakeasy with half circular doors Burgundy in color and inside are gold beaded curtains hanging nonchalant
    from the celling the lighting is of dark red like your in a boudoir everyone is
    half lidded from the smoke of opium
    hallucination and laughing American Sailors leaning towards the table while
    an attractive girl dances to an sad ballad of Billie Holliday while the
    gangters mistresses and them do some illegal bribes.” (Weimar27, 15/12/10)
  • “Opium is not a Ingénue scent or a scent for good girls this is an scent if you want to walk on the wild side.” (Weimar27, 15/12/10)
  • “The woman that wears Opium is very stylish and as some might agree, exotic. There’s an element to Opium that is rather dirty and shocking, like the scent of a heavy smoker or the scent that lingers in the air after a night of passion. While some will find Opium repulsive, others will love its blatantly sexual appeal.” (blood-orange, 05/06/11)
  • “A spectacular incense of monstrous proportions, it is the scent of midnight mass in a massive gothic cathedral, creating images of a priestly procession, chanting in Latin, where an incognito woman of the night crouches in the knave, lighting candles before an icon of the virgin. Opiums’ sensuality is brilliant in that it relies entirely on the protestant imagination’s ability to re-envision the unholy corruption of the old church.” (Aredore, 26/06/11)
  • “Opening a bottle of Opium is to be transported to long ago parties at legendary New York clubs of the late 70s and early 80s, where the women who wore Opium were outrageous, bold, otherworldly personalities, the likes for whom the scent was created.” (Jillita, 05/01/12)
  • “I can’t for a minute deny how good it smells, but that very smell is so intimately bound with the memories of gigantic shoulder pads, peplum bubble dresses, and 99 Luftballons that it’s near impossible to contemplate with objectivity.” (Way Off Scenter, 22/06/14)
  • “Its scent actually reminds me a lot of the collected scents of the various houses and apartments where my stepmother has lived over the years. Her name is Snezana, which means Snow White (really) and she comes from Macedonia, in the former Yugoslavia, but went to live in Denmark with her family when she was a child. As an immigrant and a part-time gypsy therefore, she has a fierce magpie instinct, collecting objects and tchotchkes like amber beads, fat sachets of lavender from the Croatian islands, incense, sandalwood soap, bags of Orthodox frankincense, and wooden balls rubbed with essential oils. These objects give her comfort. Her skin and hair smell exotic too, the spicy food she eats and the herbal, folklore-type medicines she uses radiating from her pores.” (ClaireV, 19/02/15)




Semiotics and the Language of Consumerism

Studio, Uncategorized


  • Interested in the way in which advertisers structure signs and language in order to sell an item but an experience of shopping and consumption.
  • Interested in the way in which the ‘language’ of capitalism has shaped our individual language in terms of how we regard items and purchases – with regard to reviews
  • Aim to analyse the language of reviews in order to understand how this has entered the cultural pysche
  • Aim to combine this with my own practice when travelling to shopping centres and interrogating my own experience
  • Posssible comparison with the second hand language used in luterature surrounding shopping in Walter Benjamin’s, ‘The Arcades Project’

First Text:

‘You Are What You Buy: Postmodern Consumerism and the Construction of Self’ – Danielle Todd –

“Consumption is intimately tied to the creation and production of a sense of self.”

“Today, it is virtually impossible to buy any product not embedded with certain symbols of identity acquired by the buyer knowingly or otherwise.”

“consumption functions as way for the consumer to communicate with society at large where they fit within the social structure.”

“Drawing on semiotics, Baudrillard uses the sign/ signifier technique to explain consumption so that what we purchase is not just a product, but also a piece of a “language” that creates a sense of who we are.”

“The point is that fixity can no longer be assumed; personal relationships and connections to social groups are always contingent; and, individuals must now scan the world to decide with whom or what they wish to identify.”





Artist Inspiration – Wade Guyton

Artist Influence, Artist Influences, Studio, Studio 3, Summer Assessment 2018, Uncategorized

‘Untitled‘, 2011


‘Untitled‘, 2006


‘Untitled‘, 2008


‘Untitled‘, 2008


‘Untitled‘, 2012


‘Untitled‘, 2017


‘Untitled‘, 2010


‘Untitled‘, 2017

I am very interested in the work of Wade Guyton, and the way he uses digital technologies, such as printers and scanners in order to create his works, which show irregularities and mistakes, highlighting such so that they become the subject of the work, with the materiality of the process being absolute to the finished art object.

Guyton creates his works by feeding linen and other materials into an inkjet printer the printer is not designed to work with materials that are grained or uneven, and therefore, streaks, lines, marks and colour irregularity can occur. These accidents due to the nature of the printer cannot be predicted, and therefore each work is unique, proving the ability for an image of difference within the digital realms where images exist in simulacra, repeated and repeated and repeated.

I like the way in which you can see the clear line of the ink toner running out within some of the images, as well as the way in which there are clear colour fades or bleeding which help enhance the image to become truly one with its method of existence – it owes itself to the printer which gave it its deformities. I my own work, I would like to explore the deformities of the regular printer – not by printing on irregular materials, but rather by accepting the natural irregularities of photo printing. I do not want my block colour prints to be perfect, but rather will seek to display the natural colour bleeds or lines, in order to show the way in which my display has arisen from my own investigations – not professionally printed, but rather more personal – a compulsion in order to act and display my research.

Artist Research – Berny Tan

Artist Influence, Artist Influences, Studio, Studio 3, Uncategorized

‘After A Lover’s Discourse’, 2014


‘After A Lover’s Discourse’, 2014


‘After A Lover’s Discourse’, 2014


‘Study of Conversational Patterns in Phone Calls to my Grandmother’, 2014


‘Study of Conversational Patterns in Phone Calls to my Grandmother’, 2014

download (1)

‘A Visual Guide to References in T.S. Eliot’s The Waste Land (1922)’, 2011

Methods of displaying investigations have been the focus of my practice this year, and I am interested in other artists who explore charts, diagrams and sheets as ways of working through and processing information from an investigation. One of the most proficient examples of this contemporary engagement with the ‘aesthetic of administration’ is Berny Tan. Tan uses graphs and charts in order to plot the research collected from her investigations, using colour as a main factor in her organisation of data.

In her works ‘After A Lover’s Discourse‘, Tan studied Roland Barthes’ text A Lover’s Discourse: Fragments, analysing the way in which each chapter referenced specific genres, and making connections to show these reference through thread. Every time a chapter mentioned that specific genre or idea, the string would get wound again, creating heavier weighted lines between the most commonly referenced genres. I am interested in the way the text was analysed to find the commonality of references within the work, therefore reducing somewhat into an idea of an experience of phrases. The way in which Tan has taken an interest in a text, and manipulated this to find some kind of quantifiable science from within, is something I find connected to my practice, and therefore her rigid, yet playful method of display is something I would like to explore within my practice. The boring, unimpressive nature of historical conceptual art is revolutionised through the use of colour and sculptural form, giving an investigation the chance to enter into artistic objecthood.



Artist Research – Hanne Darboven

Artist Influence, Artist Influences, Studio, Studio 3, Summer Assessment 2018, Uncategorized

‘Kulturgeschichte 1880–1983’, (1980-1983)


‘Kulturgeschichte 1880–1983’, (1980-1983)


‘Kulturgeschichte 1880–1983’, (1980-1983)


Hanne Darboven exhibition at Sprth Magers, 2016


Hanne Darboven exhibition at Sprth Magers, 2016

Card Index: Filing Cabinet, Part 2 1975 by Hanne Darboven 1941-2009

‘Card Index: Filing Cabinet, Part 2’, 1975


‘Menschen und Landschaften’, 1985

I am highly inspired by the work of Hanne Darboven, in particular her exhaustive and innovative investigations, which when displayed present an overwhelming accumulation of wholly indiscernable information, which is at once shocking in its wealth, as well as beautiful and smart in its presentation.

The basis of Darboven’s research idea stems from an